It is becoming easier and easier to find really phenomenal preserved tuna these days; I say "preserved tuna" because the best comes in glass jars, not cans. But I cringe whenever I hear about someone buying a $20 can of Spanish or Italian tuna and slathering it with mayo the way you would with the kind of canned tuna your mom used to buy.

In order to really appreciate good tuna, you need tuna salad recipes that are off the beaten track. There are lots of Sicilian recipes for tuna, and the French and Spanish have some excellent ones as well. And mind you, mayo isn't evil -- it just needs to be used with a very light hand with this kind of tuna.

Some cooks are taking things one step further by making their own "tunafish." It's pretty easy: You flavor some olive oil, then poach albacore tuna in it over low heat for several hours. It's a great way to get that high-quality tuna taste without haveing to spend an arm and a leg for it.

Photo copyright 2008 Hank Shaw